Visit The Glyptotek, Copenhagen
Having lived in Copenhagen for over a year, I was recently amazed to discover the beauty inside the Glyptotek museum. Somewhat overlooked by tourists due to its next-door neighbour in Tivoli, the Glyptotek is a treasure trove of sculptures and paintings, dedicated (mostly) to the ancient classical world.
The sculptures which are set outside the walls of the museum had never drawn my interest, so it wasn’t until I stuck my head inside the doors that I witnessed what awaits visitors to the museum.
Aside from the impressive collections of Greek, Roman and Egyptian sculptures and friezes, the domed ‘Winter Garden’ (pictured below) is perhaps the most jaw-dropping spectacle of all.
Read on to discover how Carl Jacobsen (of Carlsberg fame) founded the gallery, and how it has evolved into one of the must-see attractions of any trip to Copenhagen.
A short history of the Glyptotek
The entire building was originally Jacobsen’s private villa, which he filled with ancient art, as well as contemporary French and Danish sculptures. Carl Jacobsen was a dedicated art collector.
In 1882 he added the first version of his winter garden, where exotic plants could thrive inside a glass enclosure. It was this same year that his villa was opened to the public.
Three years later, Jacobsen’s house museum had grown to a total of 19 galleries, with famous architects of the time like Hack Kampmann aiding in the design.
It became clear that a purpose-built site would be needed to house the growing collections and the number of enthusiastic visitors. In 1888 Carl Jacobsen donated his collection to the Danish State and the City of Copenhagen on the condition that they provided a suitable building for its exhibition. Copenhagen's old fortifications had recently been abandoned and a site was chosen on a ravelin outside Holcks Bastion in the city's Western Rampart, just south of the Tivoli Gardens which had been founded in 1843. It was Jacobsen who also chose the name for the museum, with inspiration from Ludwig I's Glyptothek in Munich.
In 1899 Carl Jacobsen donated his collection of Antique art to the museum, with Hack Kampmann drafted in again to design the extension and the original architect Dahlerup designing the winter garden the new wing to the old wing.
The building has been open to the public since 1906, with newer additions in 1996 and renovations in 2007.
The Collections at the Glyptotek
As I mentioned above, the gallery houses both ancient and modern collections. My own opinion is that the ancient collections are worth spending the most time on - but I am an archaeologist so may be biased!
When you arrive, pass through the winter garden and up the steps at the other side to explore the collections of Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan and Roman art and architecture.
After a while, the rows of stone heads (or headless bodies) may start to feel a bit samey, so make sure you check out the incredible sarcophagi in the Egyptian section and the temple on the floor above.
My recommendation? Once you are done with the ancient collections, head to the beautiful Winter Garden, get something to eat and refresh at the cafe and have a look at the excellent bookshop beside it. In summer, you could even head up to the roof for a bite to eat looking out over the rooftops of central Copenhagen and the rollercoasters of Tivoli (see final photo on this article!).
Then move on to The Modern Department, which focuses on Danish painting and sculpture of the 19th and 20th centuries, as well as French art of the same period. If you have an interest in or are curious about Denmark's Golden Age and French Impressionism, the two floors are well worth a visit. Jacobsen’s collection boasts work from Gauguin, Degas and Rodin.
The Glyptotek holds special exhibitions, so I recommend checking the website www.glyptoteket.com for information on exhibitions and current events before you visit.
Final tip. On Tuesdays entrance is free.
Getting to the Glyptotek
Due to its location, the Glyptotek is pretty accessible by foot from the centre of Copenhagen. It’s a short stroll north from the central station and Tivoli, although if you are travelling from further afield I’ve noted some of the nearest train and bus stops to the palace below:
Metro: Rådhuspladsen
Harbour bus: The Royal Library
Trains: Copenhagen Central Station
